Over the past few weeks, I had the opportunity to eat at two of Kelly Whitaker's Denver restaurants, Sheep, a pop-up version of The Wolf's Tailor, and Bruto, which announced Tuesday that it has hired a new culinary director, Carolina Zubiate. At both places, I got to have some -- okay, too much -- of Whitaker's famed piada-style hearth bread. And while it might be difficult to accept that bread could be one of the best dishes in Denver, in this case, it is true. Light and fluffy on the inside and saltingly seared on the outside, the bread manages to be both chewy and airy at the same time. All of Whitaker's restaurants use a different version of the bread -- and different butters or sauces -- but all are made with flour from the chef's milling company, Dry Storages. At Bruto, it takes a 48-hour ferment and is baked around 800 degrees on the hearth. The one on the menu is served with a cultured mugolio butter and sweet corn pudding. The one pictured above is an experimental burnt anticucho butter made with sourdough gochujang and banana leaf vinegar.