There I was, the sun warming my skin, lying back and listening to the waves gently splashing below my overwater bungalow. Across the clear turquoise lagoon, jagged volcanic peaks sheathed in lush greenery spill down towards the sea. | | | | | | I’m Jessica Lockhart, Lonely Planet’s Oceania editor, and there I was, the sun warming my skin, lying back and listening to the waves gently splashing below my overwater bungalow. Across the clear turquoise lagoon, jagged volcanic peaks sheathed in lush greenery spilled down towards the sea. I felt far too lazy to move, but cooling off didn’t take much effort; a ladder from my private patio led directly into the ocean. In any formulaic travel article, this is where I’d usually introduce my destination by name. But in the case of this South Pacific island paradise, it doesn’t feel necessary. You probably already know where I am. Scenes from French Polynesia – especially the islands of Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moʻorea – are just that iconic. But it always seemed out of reach: a little too remote, a little too unaffordable and a little too geared to lovebirds. Over the course of a week, I made like Goldilocks and tried out three different versions of French Polynesia until I found one that seemed just right. Although by the end of my trip, I felt that Goldilocks had it all wrong, why choose one island when you can have all three? | | | Morning: When I arrived in Rurutu, a laid-back alternative to the more famous islands, I knew I had missed whale spotting season. But I had been promised there was still plenty to do – like climbing inside the mouth of a monster.
That’s how I found myself scrambling through la Gueule du Monstre, a cave with natural pillars that look like the teeth of a giant creature. It’s one of the many caverns hidden along the island’s shores and in its interior. Unlike the extinct volcanic cones that have shaped much of French Polynesia, Rurutu is a raised coral atoll, resulting in its unique geology.
| | | | Afternoon: I spent a full afternoon with one of Vaitumu Village’s staff, Soraya Mairau, who drove me around the 32km Africa-shaped island. We explored fern-filled caverns, stopped to admire Rurutu’s legendary taro fields and gathered the hard red seeds of an adenanthera pavonina tree, used as beads in jewelry. | Where to stay: With its seaside swimming pool, Vaitumu Village is the closest thing you’ll find to a resort on the tiny island of Rurutu, but it’s actually an affordable pension.
What we ate: Rurutu’s taro is famed throughout French Polynesia, and you can bet it’ll be on the menu at Vaitumu, where a half-pension includes breakfast and dinner (lunch is an optional extra). | | | Photography credits: Jessica Lockhart/Lonely Planet (7) | This email was sent to you by: | Lonely Planet Publications Ltd. | 1101 Red Ventures Drive, Fort Mill, SC 29707 | | | |
