Everything I’m cooking before my September Sicilian getaway.
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Everything I’m cooking before my Sicilian getaway | The Guardian
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A black pan with a wooden handle holding spaghetti in red sauce, with a spoon and fork resting inside.

Everything I’m cooking before my Sicilian getaway

Before I head to Italy for a last hit of summer sunshine, I’m getting into the mood with bucatini by a master, the perfect panna cotta and a Sicilian spread that is a true autumn feast

Georgina Hayden Georgina Hayden
 

As you read this, I will likely be in the throes of packing my suitcase for a much-needed escape to Italy (Sicily, to be precise). A hit of vitamin D before the summer wardrobe is put away for another year, and I am ready to fully embrace autumn and winter hermit mode. I’ve always felt that September is the perfect time to escape to the Mediterranean for a last-minute injection of sun and, in this instance, to indulge in pasta, gelato and a healthy side of aperitivo. I cannot wait.

Because I have to cook a million meals before I go, I have prepared the family Rachel Roddy’s chicken thighs with cherry tomatoes and a green bean, lettuce and parmesan salad for a meal I know they all will devour. I’ve also made Felicity Cloake’s raspberry panna cotta with the haul we harvested from our local pick-your-own farm, a recipe she confirms also works with overripe or crushed berries that aren’t quite in top shape. There is also a tub of Rachel’s courgette, goat’s cheese and lemon risotto in the fridge, because we nabbed a couple of courgettes at the farm, too. That should keep my household going for a bit.

Rachel Roddy's baked chicken thighs with tomatoes, and a green bean, lettuce and parmesan salad .
camera Rachel Roddy's baked chicken thighs with tomatoes, and a green bean, lettuce and parmesan salad . Photograph: Rachel Roddy/The Guardian

When I get back, I know I’ll be on my Italian-inspired cloud, so it’ll be more pasta than normal (is that possible?) and miniature cannoli with an espresso in the afternoon for a pick-me-up. I rely on classics such as Anna Del Conte’s bucatini all’amatriciana (pictured top) and Georgia Levy’s broccoli and anchovy farfalle to get us through a busy week.

Of course, going to Sicily means indulging in my favourite pasta alla norma, and I’ll be following Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe, because, let’s be honest, the man really knows how to cook an aubergine. And, while I hate to admit it, I know I’ll be coming back to a change of season and all that autumn brings. Perhaps an autumn feast from Ben Tish’s Sicilian spread will help soften the blow – panelle, sea salt and salsa verde being one of my favourite snacks. Or maybe I will follow Ben’s recipes for granita, and serve trays of it in the morning, alongside a stack of brioche buns. It is a traditional Sicilian breakfast, after all, so it would be rude not to. And then, perhaps, I can cling on to that summer feeling for just a tiny bit longer.

• Read Italian-flavoured recipes in a special edition of Feast with the Guardian this Saturday, in the Feast app and on theguardian.com/food.

My week in food

The Newt in Somerset, showing house and gardens.
camera Core values … the Newt in Somerset, home to orchards, gardens – and the Cyder Club. Photograph: Jake Eastham

Sweet’n’sour | Chick’n’Sours, my all-time favourite chicken shop, shut its doors for the last time this summer, so I was delighted to find out it isn’t closing shop for good, but instead is now focusing on festivals, pop-ups and delivery. Their tenders and seaweed crack are out of this world. So, while I’ll miss long afternoons and late-night chicken feasts with a side of perfectly sour cocktails, I’m thrilled that I’ll get to enjoy them without even having to leave the house.

Cider of my eye | My husband and I don’t often share tastes in alcoholic beverages, but we have recently found common ground in the Newt Cyder Club. This quarterly subscription treats you to a range of homegrown and pressed ciders, with a little backstory on the apples and a few of the Newt’s in-house-made treats for good measure. It’s very early for the “C” word, but this really would make a lovely present – Christmas, birthday or otherwise.

What I’m reading | Abundance: Eating and Living With the Seasons, by Mark Diacono. I am a huge fan of Mark’s work, and this book is my favourite of his yet. He spent a year documenting his life in and out of the kitchen, and Abundance is the fruit of his labour (pun intended). Filled with wonderful, seasonal recipes, it’s an insightful, inspiring and witty read.

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Restaurant of the week

Restaurant tables with an open kitchen and bar area at Tillingham.
camera ‘Not much cooking was going on’ … Tillingham, Peasmarsh, East Sussex. Photograph: Peter Flude/The Guardian

Tillingham, Peasmarsh, East Sussex | Grace Dent loved the vineyard setting but found the restaurant “working to a fraction of its potential”. The focaccia “had definitely seen brighter, crisper days” and the starters lacked zing, though mains such as the lobster linguine and lamb with rosemary jus impressed. Grace’s verdict: “So many cooks, not a great deal of cooking.” ​Read the full review.

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Roasting-tin panzanella – recipe
This Tuscan tomato salad is traditionally made with stale bread, but here Esther Clarke has given it an indulgent twist and used tangy Tesco Finest sourdough, which crisps up beautifully in the oven.

This warm version of the panzanella is the perfect summer evening staple – it makes the most of the in-season Tesco Finest tomatoes, which are roasted until juicy and bursting with sweetness, while the bread is crisped in the oven. Everything is then mixed together and finished with creamy Tesco Finest buffalo mozzarella, adding a flourish of freshness to the dish.

Comfort Eating with Grace Dent

Mariella Frostrup, left, with Grace.

This week on the podcast, Grace is joined by one of Britain’s most beloved broadcasters – the journalist and presenter Mariella Frostrup. She opens up about her early food memories growing up in Norway and Ireland with a Scottish mother, shares a cringe-worthy dinner faux pas involving Prince Charles and reflects on the perils of being a little too honest with her kids.

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camera Losing their bite … plant-based burgers are feeling the heat in the meat culture war. Illustration: Guardian Design/Robyn Beck/AFP/Getty

The vegan burger boom is over – once hyped as a climate fix, they’re now languishing at just 1% of the US market.

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