The harvest ritual sacred to the O’odham, who have lived for thousands of years in what are now U.S.-Mexico borderlands, is enjoying a renaissance as many seek to protect their traditional way of life.
The treelike cacti start to produce fruit at 30 years old, then sprout their trademark arms around 75 and live up to 200 years. Most of the fruit is near the top, which can be more than four times the average person’s height.
The fruit is processed into a syrup, some of which ferments into wine for a dayslong ceremony, when O’odham pray together to their Creator to keep sending the monsoon rains. Those make it possible to plant traditional crops like beans, squash and corn.
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