Atlantic writers have never been afraid to make bold claims about beloved foods and beverages. Hard seltzer? Pretty bad, Amanda Mull argued in 2022. Wraps? The worst kind of sandwich, Ellen Cushing argued this week. Others have stood up for oft-maligned cuisine, like milk chocolate and candy corn. (Every time I publicly express my agreement with my colleague Megan Garber on milk chocolate being better than dark, I get a better understanding of her bravery.)

Some of these attempts to revisit what we eat ultimately explore what healthy really means, and why Americans have put so much cultural or social value on certain foods. Today’s newsletter explores our writers’ most interesting opinions about food and drink.

• The most miraculous—and overlooked—type of milk: Shelf-stable milk is a miracle of food science that Americans just won’t drink, Ellen Cushing writes.
• Let’s not fool ourselves about yogurt: There’s a thin line between yogurt and ice cream, Yasmin Tayag writes.