| Hello, Sarah Rappaport from Pursuits here! I’m originally from Chicago, and when I travel, that fact has historically prompted responses such as “Oh, like Michael Jordan?” Or “Like Barack Obama?” But last week, when I was in Rome, I got a new one. “Chicago! Like our new pope,” a bartender said to me, stunned that for the first time an American—Robert Francis Prevost, now known as Pope Leo XIV—had become the head of the Catholic Church. I was visiting the Eternal City ahead of a voyage on the new La Dolce Vita Orient Express, an ultra-luxury train (more on that soon), but my trip had coincided with the start of the conclave, the process by which the Catholic Church’s cardinals elect a new pope. Luckily, this was my fifth trip to Rome, so I wasn’t in a rush to see all the sights; instead I could just take in the city during such a historic moment. Rome’s Fiumicino Airport was packed with tourists, a mix of people who had long-standing plans to visit the city and those keen to be in Vatican City when a new pope was announced, a major event for the world’s 1.4 billion Catholics. There were, of course, a few grumbles about the crowds and the restrictions on tourism. I did overhear a family upset that they couldn’t visit the Sistine Chapel on their once-in-a-lifetime trip. I can understand disappointment, but it was a real read-the-room-type moment: Sorry, the Sistine Chapel is busy making history!  I am not Catholic, but last year’s Oscar-nominated film Conclave did give me a sense of what goes on in the Vatican during the election process. Source: Focus Features Still, the atmosphere in the city was electric, even if I wasn’t one of the masses waiting for a glimpse of white smoke from a chimney atop the Sistine Chapel, the traditional sign that a new pope has received the necessary two-thirds majority (black smoke means a vote was taken but no single candidate prevailed). At drinks on May 7 at a rooftop bar, I was eager to see if my vantage afforded me a view of the area around St. Peter’s. I couldn’t quite see the smoke, but the glimpse of the basilica itself was exciting to me, knowing that there was likely voting going on at the time. People were throwing around names of cardinals like Pizzaballa or Parolin as if it was the NBA draft, eagerly anticipating who the next pope would be. On the street, I stopped to speak with a priest from France who had come to Rome for a pilgrimage, but was pleased to be in town during such a historic moment. “People keep asking me about the pope, but I am just a priest,” he said with a wry smile. “It is, of course, in God’s hands.”  Pope Leo XIV during an audience with members of the international media in Paul VI hall in Vatican City. Photographer: Alessia Pierdomenico/Bloomberg The most exciting moment for me came when the alert popped up on my phone that a pope had been chosen. I was in a room full of Italians and could hear about 20 different incredulous voices exclaim “Americano?” as the news traveled around the room. Conclave or no concave, it was business as usual for many Romans. I asked a taxi driver taking me back to the airport how he felt about the crowds descending on the city. “It’s been so busy this year. There was the funeral for Pope Francis. Then, of course, it’s the Jubilee year,” he said, referring to a major celebration the Catholic Church puts on every 25 years, and one of the reasons Rome made our list of Where to Go in 2025. “There is always a reason to come here,” he added. Where to stay in Rome now  The striking exterior of Orient Express La Minerva, one of Italy’s hottest new hotels. Source: Orient Express La Minerva The Eternal City seems like it’s undergoing an eternal hotel boom, especially at the high end. The luxury hotel market in Rome has never been more competitive, with a host of top openings in recent years, including the Bulgari and Romeo Roma. I checked out the city’s newest luxury address, the Orient Express La Minerva, built inside a 17th century palazzo, which just opened its doors in April. The location is ideal for first-time visitors to the city, right in the middle of the Centro Storico and steps from the Pantheon. The hotel itself is a chic oasis of calm in a busy part of the city. I loved the grand, yet tranquil lobby, with its glass roof and garden of potted plants.  Pantheon views from the roof of the Orient Express La Minerva. Photo: Sarah Rappaport/Bloomberg The real show-stopper, though, is the rooftop restaurant and bar Gigi Rigolatto, which is among the biggest in the city and has sweeping vistas over the Pantheon. I suspect it will become among the coolest places for an alfresco aperitivo in Rome. Where to eat I was craving a big bowl of amatriciana pasta from one of the Roman spots recommended by top chefs that our food editor, Kate Krader, wrote about a few years ago. But due to the crowds in the city, many of those restaurants were completely booked when I tried to get a table. Instead, I walked south along the Tiber river to Testaccio market. It’s only open till mid-afternoon, but it’s a massive Roman market with plenty of affordable options for lunch. I had a delicious plate of spinach and ricotta ravioli and a soft drink for under €8 ($9), no booking necessary.  A cheap and delicious plate of ravioli. Photo: Sarah Rappaport/Bloomberg Where to have a sunset cocktail The Mediterranean “secret” garden in the Hotel de Russie—a 20-minute walk from the Orient Express La Minerva—isn’t much of a secret, but it’s a great place to escape from the crowds for a drink. Throughout the summer, the garden is home to an Aquazzura bar, which is delighting Rome’s fashionable set. I ordered a Roman Aurora, which had Casamigos, blood orange, pepper and Champagne, and it was exceedingly refreshing on a hot day.  A cocktail far from the crowds. Photo: Sarah Rappaport/Bloomberg | 
