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The rosé is at the same temperature it was last June. The same people are making the same speeches about transformation, and the speeches are, in their way, also at the same temperature.
There are, of course, structural reasons for the stasis, and the industry will tell them to you if you ask, and also if you don’t. Beach leases are negotiated months in advance. Sponsorship arrangements run multi-year. The platforms that have colonized the waterfront have both the resources to stay and an incentive so elementary it barely requires articulation: to be seen.
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