Open Thread: When fashion is no joke, and yet more creative shake-ups.
Also, what do I wear to my child’s college graduation?
Open Thread
April 3, 2026
A runway model wears a floor-length dress that was made with shattered porcelain glued together. The model’s head is similarly covered with porcelain shards.
This couture look from the Maison Margiela show in Shanghai was constructed with nearly 200 pounds of broken porcelain. Maison Margiela

Hello, Open Thread. It’s Good Friday. Astronauts are over the moon. For those who celebrated, happy Passover. And we made it through April Fools’ Day.

There were some good fashion jokes going around, though. My favorite, and the most telling: that Matthieu Blazy was leaving Chanel after just a few seasons (both impossible to believe and, given the fashion designer churn, utterly plausible).

It points to the fact that reality is getting so weird that almost anything is believable because so much that seems unbelievable is expected to be taken seriously.

I mean, just check out the Maison Margiela look above.

The label skipped the Paris shows to unveil its fall 2026 collection at Shanghai Fashion Week on Wednesday in a reflection of the need to woo global markets, as consumers start tightening their wallets. If the mountain won’t come to Mohammed, etc., etc.

Anyway, after a brilliant couture debut in July, followed by a lackluster show in September, Glenn Martens, the Margiela designer, combined ready-to-wear and some couture (or artisanal) looks in the Shanghai show. For example, it included that white dress above, which is covered in 90 kilos (198 pounds) of actual broken porcelain, glued back together.

Yes, you read that correctly; yes, even in a video it looked as if the model was having a lot of trouble moving. Yes, if you had told me that was an April Fools’ prank, I would have believed you.

A model, wearing a long dress with a beige floral pattern, walks down a runway. Her face is covered by a mask in the same pattern as the dress.
A look from the Maison Margiela fall 2026 collection. Maison Margiela

But it wasn’t! Artisanal pieces like that one, as well as a vintage 19th-century dress covered in melted beeswax, are there not so much to be worn as to make you look at, and think differently about, the stuff around you. To that end, I think they are powerfully successful.

Anyway, there were also a lot more clothes in the collection that you could actually imagine putting on your body, and some beautiful draped pieces, such as the one above (imagine it without the face mask, which is a Margiela signature). They make me excited for Mr. Martens’s next Margiela couture show in July. No joke.

NUMBER OF THE WEEK


43

The number of former models who signed open letters to Representatives Ro Khanna and Thomas Massie, as well as to New York’s attorney general, Letitia James, requesting an investigation into how the modeling industry was complicit in advancing Jeffrey Epstein’s web of abuse, and detailing some of the many connections between Epstein and modeling agencies.

And now, on to yet more creative director appointments:

  • Drew Henry, most recently the senior design director at Burberry, was named creative director of Courrèges. Henry, 38, is an alumnus of Central Saint Martins, JW Anderson and Phoebe Philo, all among fashion’s favorite names. In times of trouble, the already proven probably seems like the safest bet. Still, if his résumé sounds familiar, he does bring a little facial hair diversity to the fashion world. Unlike the rest of the new crop of creative directors with their five o’clock stubble, he has a very generous mustache.
  • Matthew M. Williams was appointed the creative director of apparel, footwear and accessories for Oakley. You may remember Williams from his last gig, as designer of Givenchy, a job he held from 2020 to 2024 after starting his own label, 1017 Alyx 9SM. Named to the couture house at the height of fashion’s romance with streetwear, he never managed to make his mark there, but he makes a lot more sense for Oakley, and the appointment is a sign that Oakley has big ambitions beyond glasses. His first collection will reveal exactly how big. I’ll be watching.

Think about that. Then dive into the story of the Antwerp Six and how they are still changing fashion; consider the style statements of the French national soccer team; and get the lowdown on International Orange, the color of the Artemis II spacesuits.

And have a good, safe weekend. If you are Easter parading, send photos of your hats!

STYLE IN THE WORLD

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INSIDE FASHION TIPS

AND DON’T FORGET

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Your Style Questions, Answered

Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or X. Questions are edited and condensed.

My two children are graduating from college on consecutive weekends in May. What do I wear? I want to look sophisticated and appropriate but also relaxed. — Sarah, Westchester, N.Y.

Being a parent at a college graduation is not exactly the same as being a parent at a wedding, but it is not that different. In each case, you are a supporting act but one who plays a very public role, which will itself be preserved for posterity by assorted photographs documenting the moment.

That means that whatever choice you make, it’s not only going to be with you in perpetuity, but also with your child. It may, in fact, be displayed for viewing long after you are gone.

Yet in deciding how you want to show up in that moment, you and your own tastes are the least important elements in the calculation.

A graduation, like a wedding, is about the people at the center of the ritual: the graduates. Whatever you wear should be guided by their preferences, and children always have them. (When I picked mine up at school, on days when I wore a Rick Owens jumpsuit, they would ask me to meet them at the corner because they thought it was so weird.)

Your choice should be generic enough not to call attention to itself or, by association, you, while looking smart enough to make your progeny feel proud to show you off.

No pressure!

A sea of students, seen in close-up, wearing bright blue caps and gowns.
Getty

Tina Chai, a stylist who has worked with Tory Burch, Banana Republic and Jason Wu, suggests that for women the easiest options are straightforward pieces like tea dresses or shirtwaists but in elevated fabrics — a crisp cotton or linen in seaside or garden shades. Keep the patterns and accessories minimal.

For an example, see Brooke Shields, who wore a simple below-the-knee white linen shift dress to her daughter’s college graduation last year. It was summery but neat and subdued enough to recede into the background. Or Kimora Lee Simons, who chose a natty navy blazer with gold buttons over a white tee for her daughter’s graduation.

Another good option, for men and women: a linen blazer or a pantsuit.

A few further tips. First, avoid the trap of falling into school colors. Your child does not need you to act like a cheerleader for their educational institution. After all, they are now leaving it. In a similar vein, avoid the desire to engage in graduation gimmickry, like wearing a pin with your child’s face on it. They will not thank you.

Second, wear flat and/or very comfortable shoes. Many graduations take place on grassy, uneven ground, and all of them generally require a lot of walking and standing. You do not want to be tottering around in a sea of celebrants, terrified of twisting your ankle. And if you are wearing open-toe sandals, make sure you get a pedicure. Again, the goal is to avoid embarrassing your child.

Third, be aware that many schools have banned handbags and tote bags for obvious, if depressing, reasons. If you need to carry a phone or a wallet, pockets are your friend.

Finally, always consider the weather. If the graduation is outside, it could be breezy, so bring a wrap or a cardigan if you aren’t wearing a jacket, and don’t forget to apply sunscreen before you arrive. You could be sitting with no shade for hours, and ending the day with unsightly sunburn splotches does not convey the message that you are the older, wiser family member. The one who has, you know, already learned something.

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