Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday, along with monthly travel and beauty guides, and the latest stories from our print issues. And you can always reach us at tmagazine@nytimes.com. WEAR THIS Elegant Everyday Clothes From a Parisian Vintage Shop
In 2022, the French Hungarian creative director Clara Hofer-Maire launched the vintage fashion brand Turn with her French American co-founder Alix Darcy, stocking layered, delicate silhouettes in their online shop. Last November, the pair opened a showroom in Paris’s Second Arrondissement. They often source unusual pieces through closet visits with their local clientele, and have a soft spot for lesser-known European labels, like the Italian designer Laura Biagiotti. One of their early 100-piece vintage collections, shown at Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s New York boutique, presented a clash of earthy dark browns and blacks with electric greens and “almost poisonous neons,” says Hofer-Maire. But they felt there were still elements missing, and recently decided to create a handful of new pieces of their own. Available as of today, the 10 designs of their debut collection, called Paire, hang on the racks of their intimate fourth-floor salon, mixed between decades-old trench coats and lightly frayed button-downs. Some pieces bring contemporary cuts and fresh hues, like a pair of pants with a loose streetwear-style shape or a pristine creamy white sweater. “I love patina, but sometimes we want to be able to offer contrasting colors and materials,” says Hofer-Maire, who produced the collection alongside Turn’s CEO, the Marseille-born fashion strategist Idris Arab-Tani. For design inspiration, Hofer-Maire looked back to her childhood memories of strict French classrooms. After moving from Budapest to Paris at four years old, she was often confused or misunderstood at school and sought comfort in small playthings that felt as surreal as her experience. In the collection, she references these through subtly irreverent details like an asymmetrical drawstring with only one pompom or a conversation-starting blue sequined lobster brooch: “It can crawl around your outfit. You can pin it anywhere, even on a shoe,” she says. The team only produced 30 of each piece. “We’re quite used to saying, ‘No, it’s gone,’” says Hofer-Maire. From about $120, turnparis.com. STAY HERE A Portuguese Farmhouse Hotel With Yoga and Baking Workshops
As a child in the 1970s and ’80s, the Dutch Portuguese entrepreneur Mike Schwalbach spent summers in a small village near Leiria, between Lisbon and Porto, where his mother was born and much of her family still lived. When he and his wife, Nikki Mol, who has a background in operations, were seeking a holiday home for their own family in 2017, they bought a 1906 quinta, a traditional Portuguese farmhouse, in the area. Over the years, they expanded its acreage, buying up neighboring forest and farmland, and eventually decided to turn it into a hotel. Quinta Filippa, named for Schwalbach’s eldest daughter, will open to guests in September with 16 bedrooms spread between the original quinta and a series of new concrete-and-glass structures. Wooden ceilings, floors and furniture (a mix of solid oak, bamboo and pine) give the rooms a warm, understated feel; much of the furniture and lighting, including wicker lampshades, was custom-made by local craftspeople. The land, dotted with more than 40 ancient wells, was intensively farmed until the 1990s; Schwalbach and Mol worked with an organic farmer to regenerate the soil, and have seen insect and bird life — including Iberian green woodpeckers, ospreys and herons — proliferate as a result. The hotel has its own line of organic soaps and shampoos, while estate-grown vegetables, herbs and spices supply the restaurant, which will serve light meals that combine Portuguese and Mediterranean flavors. The quinta’s original bread oven has been restored; the chef Hilário Gaspar Carvalho, who has worked for Portuguese luminary José Aville, will use it to run baking workshops for guests. Portugal’s famous Nazaré surf break is just a 25-minute drive away, but the heated saltwater swimming pool, saunas and range of activities on offer — including yoga, reformer Pilates, mountain biking and sunset rides on Portuguese Lusitano horses — may mean guests won’t want to stray far. Doubles from $1,000 a night, including meals and a morning and evening activity, quintafilippa.com. SEE THIS A California Painter’s Perspective on Home and Family History
The Los Angeles-based artist Dashiell Manley’s new exhibition, “Periplums,” at Marianne Boesky Gallery in Manhattan, is a reimagining of a show that was originally meant to debut last March, when the Eaton fire broke out and ruined his canvases as the paint was drying. The works were based on government-commissioned photos of Japanese internment camps taken by Dorothea Lange and Ansel Adams in the 1940s — camps to which several of his relatives were sent along with over 120,000 Japanese Americans. After the fires, Manley says, he became more interested in mapping his own experience onto the project, resulting in a more personal continuation of his heavily textured “Elegy” paintings: The 10 canvases ultimately featured in the exhibition are bisected along lines reflecting the journey from his Altadena house to Manzanar, one of the 10 camps. The show also includes the artist’s re-edit of a 1939 Warner Bros. animation, in which Uncle Sam teaches Porky Pig about American history. Manley has pulled every frame from the nine-minute original and re-sequenced it into an original work. As the father to two children under seven, he’s particularly interested in the way cartoons can convey information. “Periplums” is on view Mar. 5 through Apr. 18, marianneboeskygallery.com. IN SEASON In Oregon, Local Truffles Reign
It’s truffle season in Oregon, and the truffle hunter Ava Chapman — and her prizewinning dog, a yellow Labrador retriever named Joey — is preparing to lead a small tour into the forested Willamette Valley hills, in search of Tuber oregonense. Specimens of this native variety resemble black lumps of coal with soft white interiors; compared to the more common European varieties, such as Perigord, they are noticeably fruitier and more aromatic, typically harvested wild and cost a fraction of the price. Chapman’s group will head into the woods for about an hour and a half, armed with gloves, boots and jackets to ward off the rain. These forays might yield dozens of individual truffles, which eager home chefs then take home to stir over risotto, infuse into oils and cheeses, or shave directly over the top of local beef. Joey is the real star of the show — his keenly trained nose has won the pair first place in the region’s annual Oregon Truffle Festival, which features a competitive amateur truffle hunt known as the Joriad. The local interest in dog-hunted Oregon truffles, preferred over rake-harvested truffles by connoisseurs for their pungent fragrance and explosive flavor, has grown dramatically over the past decade, and now those who want to avoid the elements can find Oregon truffles at Providore, one of Portland’s specialty groceries, and in restaurants across the region. At Astera, also in Portland, the chef Aaron Casañas-Adams serves them shaved over ribbons of kohlrabi; elsewhere in the city, the chef Cathy Whims, of Nostrana, presents them filigreed among Piedmontese chestnut polenta, and the chef Greg Higgins, of the downtown restaurant Higgins, offers local truffles as an accompaniment to grass-fed Angus beef from the Oregon coast. At the chef Sarah Schafer’s restaurant Grounded Table in McMinnville, an hour south of the city, truffles are delicately sliced atop mortadella tortellini en brodo. “I wasn’t a believer at first,” says Schafer, who got her start in New York City at Gramercy Tavern and Eleven Madison Park. “But over the years, I’ve learned more and more about these local truffles and their aromas, and I’ve changed my mind.” READ THIS New Books Highlighting Jewelry Makers
Humans have worn jewelry for thousands of years; in Morocco, archaeologists uncovered perforated snail shells that were thought to have been used as beads in prehistoric times. That long-running fascination has resulted in a set of books published over the past year. “The Jewelry Book,” edited by the writer and curator Melanie Grant, homes in on the past two centuries, charting the history of leading houses, designers and collectors like the French singer Josephine Baker, who was known for her appreciation of pearls. “The Super Book of Gems,” written by sisters Maria Dueñas Jacobs and Bianca Gottesman, the co-founders of the children’s jewelry line Super Smalls, introduces young readers to gemstones through a graphic, sparkle-filled format that explores the science, history and symbolism of gems and birthstones. It pairs playful commentary with photos of jewelry from houses like Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier alongside that of designers including Irene Neuwirth and Marlo Laz. “Journey of a Jeweler” celebrates the Brazilian designer Silvia Furmanovich, tracing the travels, artisans and traditional techniques that have shaped her work over the past 25 years. Known for her intricate marquetry, Furmanovich also incorporates practices such as takeami, the Japanese art of bamboo weaving, into her designs. The book draws from the scrapbooks she keeps during her travels, layering pressed flowers, fabric swatches and photos into collaged pages that read as artworks in their own right. “Vivienne Westwood & Jewellery,” by the fashion journalist Alexander Fury, details hundreds of pieces that reflect the house’s blend of luxury and rebellion. Through still lifes, runway shots and portraits of Westwood, the book documents the origin stories behind the designs and underscores her lasting punk spirit. “A. Codognato. Memento Vivere” focuses on the Venetian jeweler Attilio Codognato, whose family atelier, founded in 1866 near St. Mark’s Square, became known for its skulls, serpents and cameo motifs rooted in Byzantine, Roman and Renaissance symbolism. Through three essays and more than 150 images, including some by the fashion photographers Juergen Teller and Mario Sorrenti, the book places Codognato’s creations in a broader dialogue between art, history, contemporary culture and family legacy. FROM T’S INSTAGRAM A Masterwork of Postmodern Dance, Performed at The New York Times
Last month, seven dancers from the Trisha Brown Dance Company performed an excerpt from the choreographer’s piece “Set and Reset” at T’s office in Midtown Manhattan. The work, which debuted in 1983, was staged last week at BAM as part of the festival Dance Reflections which is sponsored by Van Cleef & Arpels. Considered a pioneer of postmodern dance — a style that emerged in the early 1960s and emphasized everyday actions — Brown placed many of her early performances in unconventional urban settings. In one, four dancers moved their limbs and torsos while mostly lying on their backs atop wooden rafts floating on a pond in Minneapolis. Another transpired on the face of the seven-story New York apartment building where Brown lived with her first husband, Joseph Schlichter. Strapped into a harness, Schlichter walked, his body parallel to the ground and his legs straddling a rope, from the edge of the roof to the courtyard below. Brown, who died in 2017, was influenced by the composer John Cage’s theories of chance and embraced the uncontrollable effects these and other surroundings had on her work. Click here to read the full story and follow us on Instagram.
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