| Anne-Sophie Pic, who holds the distinction as the female chef with the most Michelin stars in the world, opened her Hong Kong restaurant in late 2023, just when hopes for a post-pandemic boon were turning into blues. The notion of another French fine dining establishment felt risky when rivals like Louise leaned into the bistro vibe to entice more value-conscious eaters, and with powerhouses like Caprice and Amber having dominated the scene for two decades. Yet Cristal Room, perched on the 45th floor of Gloucester Tower (home to the Merchants and Cardinal Point), delivers food and services that match its pedigree. It also brings a touch of fun that its name, location and lineage don’t immediately communicate, perhaps to its detriment.  Source: Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic Part of the strategy involves offering a three-course lunch menu with a reasonable headline price of HK$680 ($87). But costs escalate quickly when you add the dishes that make the restaurant special: the vegetal chawanmushi and caviar with teardrop peas and ebi shrimp (HK$288), Pic’s signature pasta parcels filled with goat cheese in green tomato consomme (HK$388), and the millefeuille dessert with coffee chantilly and sobacha caramel (HK$188). These three items more than easily double the cost of lunch, but without them the meal would miss some sparkles. When I went on a recent Saturday, the base offering, which changes frequently, began with delightful flower crab seasoned with sobacha (a tea made from roasted buckwheat) and tarragon ice cream, followed by either skate wing or pork loin confit as the main course, and a dessert. Those were well executed but surely outshone by the extras. Our bill for two totaled HK$3,798 for a pair of lunch sets, aforementioned add-ons, a glass of wine each and the service charge. That put us well into Caprice or Amber territory, where four-course lunch sets start at HK$1,288 and HK$1,168, respectively. Still, it’s a joy — if you can stomach the price tag. The food showcases Pic’s clever integration of Japanese influences without falling into cliche. The steam egg was a good example, with the caviar giving the dish a needed savoriness and touch of luxury without being gratuitous. The pasta parcels, called Berlingots, burst with creamy and slightly tangy goat cheese, perfectly balanced by the acidity of the tomato consomme. The open kitchen was a sight nearly as impressive as the view of Victoria Harbour, seemingly smokeless with cookware that somehow doesn’t clatter.  Vegetal chawanmushi and caviar with teardrop peas and ebi shrimp. Photographer: Alan Wong/Bloomberg The vibe: The restaurant is a collaboration with French crystal maker Baccarat, but it’s not a tacky chandelier-and-fresh-flowers affair. The refined yet relaxed environment signals this isn’t a place where you’ll sit ramrod-straight for three hours awaiting petit fours. Think kidney bean-shaped tables. No tablecloths. Can you conduct a meeting here? Absolutely. The spacious layout and attentive — but not overbearing — service make it suitable for business dining. Ask for the corner room for more privacy. Or request the table near the kitchen to see the impeccable cooking action. Who’s next to you: A mix of diners with expense accounts and serious food enthusiasts who’ve made the pilgrimage for Pic’s name. It’s also the kind of place where people celebrate special occasions. What we’d order again: Get the pasta parcels. They’re worth it if your expense (or bank) account allows it. The wine pairing at HK$488 seems to be solid value, although my guest and I went just for a glass each.  Pasta parcels filled with goat cheese, green tomato consomme, chrysanthemum and marigold. Source: Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic Need to know: Cristal Room is located on the 45th floor of Gloucester Tower (reception is on the 43rd) in the Landmark in Central. Lunch is available Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 2:30 p.m. and dinner runs Monday to Saturday from 6:30 p.m. to midnight. Reservations can be made online. —Alan Wong Read more reviews of French restaurants: Belon, a bistro newly reinvented with Turkish flair; Babette, which aims to fill the void between casual and fine dining; and Roucou, which created the concept of the “cheese omakase.” Are there any restaurants you’d like us to review? Drop us a line at hkedition@bloomberg.net. | 
